If it's a broken arm, then brace it.
Before moving on to the neck reset, I wanted to take care of a few other details. First, there were some extra screw holes in the back of the headstock that needed filling. Second, although the neck repairs I made were holding up, some touch-up work was needed where the fret board binding ever-so-slightly overhangs the neck. Third, there were a few places in the new body binding that needed some touch-up.
Filling in the screw holes was easiest, so I started there. There were four unused holes from the original tuners that were no longer needed. I trimmed some small pieces of mahogany from that extra back brace and set them in place with some wood glue. After the glue set, I sanded off the excess wood.
The neck had a combination of issues. First, there was a gap between the binding and the neck on the bass side at about the 11th fret that needed to be filled. The gap varied in depth and width, so I filled it in with a bunch of small pieces of mahogany. Here are pictures of the spot before, during and after the wood work.
While sanding down the slight binding overhang on the treble side at the nut end, I found out just how thin the binding was. That little triangular shaped where the binding, nut and neck meet is the exposed edge of the wooden fret board.
I also had some touch-up to make to the new back binding seam. I made the seam near the dovetail joint so it would be least likely to be seen, but the little notch is too noticeable. It is easy enough to fill in.
I started by adding some extra bits of binding to some straight acetone in a mason jar.
After sitting all sealed up in the jar for 24 hours, the acetone melted the binding into a watery paste.
Besides the spots at the fretboard and back binding seam, I used some at the back by the waist.
I'll spend a few more evenings touching up a few more spots before starting in on the neck reset.