You know that I still want to play
So just make sure you got it all set to go
Before you come for my piano
- final-solder the controls
- replace missing control cavity and truss rod covers
- make and install a custom pickguard
- install a thumb rest
- refinish the body and headstock
- realign the neck/body/bridge
- install neck bolt inserts
I was still undecided on the overall color scheme, including the color and material choice for the missing control cavity cover. Since I had narrowed my material choices down to wood and plastic, I went ahead and made a control cavity cover from some scrap wood. The wood cover would certainly come in handy as a template if I were to go with a laminated plastic cover to match the pickguard and truss rod cover.
In anticipation of the finish work, I mocked out a headstock modification to make it look more like a Kramer and laid out a Spork shape for the pickguard on the body with some painters tape and markers. The pickguard would be too close to the pickguard, so I added 'relocate volume control' to the to-do list...
To be sure I would only reset the bridge location once, I thought it would make sense to first lock in the neck-to-body angle by installing the brass neck bolt inserts and stainless steel neck bolts. So, I drilled out the existing neck bolt holes to the required 1/4-inch diameter and installed the inserts.
Working without a drill press or hole guide, the body/neck bolt holes I made in this bass were out of plumb. A smart way to increase the size of these holes would have been to use progressively larger drill bits, allowing the drill bit to be guided by the existing hole. In a rush to get this step done, I overbored the 1/8-inch holes with a 1/4-inch drill bit. After installing the inserts, I found they did not line up with the holes in the body. To fix this meant rework in plugging the body and neck holes and redrilling the holes.